Dear Sir,–The “stem” or “Stove-pipe” waist was attained by only very few of the most enthusiastic tight-lacers when small waists were desired and fashionable, about 1905 and 1906. And because of the extreme severity, was seldom seen in public.
I have a description of the corset and method of lacing, which I am sure will prove interesting to many of your readers. To begin with, in this particular case a heavy belt, known as the “foundation corset,” six inches deep, measuring exactly the same at top and bottom, arranged for lacing in front, at both sides, and in the back.
It was fitted with heavy steels, ½in. apart, and provided with protection strips to prevent pinching the flesh. When laced close it measured exactly 14in. This was placed around the young lady´s waist and laced to within one inch of closing at all four places. The figure was then allowed to settle before the severe pressure was applied.
In the meantime her long tresses were curled, her face beautifully made-up, high-heeled boots laced up by her maid, and she was ready for the lacing of the “stem.” This was very slowly and gradually accomplished by the maid with the assistance of a friend. The sides were first laced simultaneously to within half an inch of closing from top to bottom, then the front and back likewise. She now measured 16in. overall, which had been easily accomplished
Her waist was then massaged to force the flesh up and down, and in a short while the lacing began again, the belt now cutting deeply into her form, while the lacing continued until finally art triumphed over nature and the lacings were entirely closed all around, after which they were tied into a knot and the ends cut off. She measured 14½in. without variation, a perfect stem waist.
The severity of this lacing was very apparent as she walked slowly across the room towards a long mirror. Her body swayed for lack of support, but she was exceedingly happy over her triumph.
Over this belt or foundation corset, the full stove-pipe corset was laced. This consisted of a long regular corset, shaped to the bust to over the hips. It was lightly boned above and below the stem, with no bones at the waist. This was hooked in front, and laced tightly to shape the entire figure, and when properly adjusted presented a most marvellous effect. Her gown was a black satin one, also laced in at the back to fit without a wrinkle from bust to hips.
Yours truly,
E. B.
New York.